“The Right Binoculars”

Pete is the retired director of the Cape May Bird Observatory founder of the World Series of Birding & author of dozens of books on birding. (Article taken from and given permission by Bird Watchers Digest Nov/Dec 2023)Sent in by Helga Merryman, GSBAS member

The way most new birders go wrong, wrong, wrong is brandishing binoculars that do not work for birding. Most new birders simply presume binoculars are binoculars and that’s that, never realizing that the frustration they are experiencing is linked to the instrument, not their inexperience.

Sadly, many of the binoculars in the hands of new birders should be confiscated and impounded. They don’t focus close enough, fast enough, or are too clunky or cumbersome to be brought to bear easily.

There is only one real test of a binocular: You raise them to your eyes and find things quickly and easily. Really. It is supposed to be that easy.

If it is not that easy, you need new binoculars, pure and simple. They need not be expensive; there are plenty of birder worthy binoculars for $150-$200.

The best way to find the glass that works for you is to attend a birding festival and test a number of makes and models. The optics reps are there to help, and most are birders themselves.

HERE ARE SOME TIPS TO HELP YOU WITH YOUR PURCHASE:

• Your glass should be 6-8 power binoculars-the most user-friendly magnifications. Higher magnifications give you a bigger image but no more detail. What you gain in magnification you lose to increased hand shake, a smaller field of view, and less depth of field-all things that make a binocular less user-friendly.
• Never buy a zoom (variable magnification) binocular.
• All binoculars should have a single center focus wheel-not a lever, but a wheel that goes the entire range of focus near to infinity in 2 to 3 revolutions. This translates to 2 to 3 quick pulls of the finer. No-focus binoculars have no place in birding.
• The focus wheel should be where your index finger easily falls. If you need to raise an elbow or shift your grip in order to spin the wheel, try another glass.
• Sleek roof prisms are easier to hold steady than wide-bodied Porro prisms, and are more rugged, too.
• Close focus should be to 6 feet or less–closer if butterfly–watching is part of your agenda.
• Field of view should be no less than 250 feet at 1,000 yards.
• Make sure they are waterproof. Not rain resistant or splashproof. Waterproof! You are going outside and you can’t always predict rain.
• Eyecups should be adjustable and then remain in place once adjusted.
• Lenses should be fully multi-coated. Not just coated lenses–fully multi-coated. It’s your guarantee of quality.
• Don’t get distracted by the formulas and jargon salespeople might throw at you. Remember: You bring the binocular to your eyes, you see things quickly and easily. Trust your eyes.
• What you are looking for is a glass that makes you say Wow! at a price that won’t make you say Ouch! Vendors at festivals often have discounted show prices. And yes, $150 and up is a lot of money, but it’s only expensive for one day. After that every look is free, and your glass should last a lifetime. (Note: Check into the vendor’s warranty—may optics companies offer a lifetime warranty!)
• Resist the temptation to run down to the local camera or sporting goods store and just plop down a lot of money assuming that will solve the problem. Go to a vendor who understands birders and your needs.
• Final thought: An 8×32 binocular is small, nimble, and offers an excellent depth of field, making it ideal for most birders and most birding situations, especially in woodlands.